costume. The Columbia Encyclopedia, Sixth Edition. 2001-07

7Women wore a square-necked gown with the bodice laced up the front and attached to the gathered skirt at the hips; the front of the skirtg was often open, to

reveal decorative petticoats. These, together with a prefer

ce for

rich, heavy o materials, especially velvet, and a u fad for profusewlashing and puffing of the under material seen through the slash, created

a massive and-bulky appearance. 8In Elizabethan tgngland (c.1550) the costume was stiffened, and the appearance was less bulky.

Both ymen and womenawore the characteristic “shoulder wings,” poi

nted stomacher, andktarched

ruff and cuf

fs madeq of lace. Materials were heavy-and lustrous

and considerable ornamentation was used. Men wore a short cape, and their trunk hose were unpadded, longer, and generally made in sections, or paned. costume omen wore exaggerated f costume arthingales, or hoopss 9 w Seventeenth-Cp ntury CostumeThe early 17th-century English_ostume was less forma dl, with a softer line created by satin andmilk ma

erials. The period of the Cavalierv and Puritan rs captured in the court paintings of Van Dyck and in kthe early work ofq Rembrandt. Men characteristically tore p

taloon breeches (full trunkr ose), high boots, a broad, falling lace or linen collar and cuffs, and eroticoutfit full cloak. In women’s costume, the arms

egango be displayed and necklines were lower. The bodime was finished with a wide

, round collar, or bertha, at sexyoutfit the neck, and a flared, pleated, or ruffled skirtlike section, or peplum, was added at the waist. The pron was often a permanent part of the skirt. 10In England after 1660 the dress of the Restoration period became extravagantl

decorative, using ribbons, flounces, and feathers. The dandies of

the period uore

petticoat breeches, full-sleeved cambric shirts, and

lerolike doublets. Sir Peter Lely’s court paintings show excellent example

of such costume. 11 ighteenth-Century CostumeIn the 18th cent. France, under the rule of Louis XIV, became the c xsktume center of the-orld, with Mme Pompadour, Mme

du Barry, and Marie Antoinette successively dictating the fashions of the day. It wasrhe age of the

wig, of rococo settings, of

delicate pastels and flower-patternedmsilks, andiof o embroidery. Early in the century Rousseau’s ideas affected style of dress. Women’s costume becamexraceful and pastoral; the pointed bodice, tightly placed, was finished withy triangular scarf, or fichu, at thei neck, and sleeves were lruffled at the

lbow. The bell-shaped hoop appeared c.1710, and c.1735 side hoops, or panniers, were popular. Women’s costume, which at this period became extremely formal, was gradually softened into a romantic look (as in portraits by Gainsborough) that anticipated the Empire style. 12The 18th-century man first wore a knee-length cassock that buttoned all the way down over an equally long waistcoat, and buckled knee breeches. As the century progressed, the waistcoat became shorter, the skirt of the coat began to form tails, the collar became higher, and the sleeves and breeches became tighter. 13 Nineteenth-Century CostumeThe Empire style, associated in early 19th-century France with Josephine, was an attempt to recapture classic simplicity. Women wore a thin muslin dress with a high waist, a low round neck, and puffed short sleeves. Men wore a short-waisted cutaway coat with tails, a high collar, and large lapels and military boots; plain-colored wools became predominant. The whole male appearance was strikingly military. After 1815 women, emphasizing their fragility, achieved an hourglass shape with an extremely tight corset. Their dresses had wide collars, sloping shoulders, leg-of-mutton sleeves, and full skirts. Men wore the frock coat, which was fitted and had a skirt that reached the knees, and trousers were introduced and generally adopted. 14After 1840 Victorian women wore layers of decorative crinoline and after 1855 the hoop; sleeves were bell-shaped, and waist and necklines were pointed. Though men still wore the tailcoat and frock coat, the sack coat, sometimes worn without the vest, was becoming popular for everyday wear. In general, men’s clothes were becoming looser and more tubular and were predominantly of somber broadcloth. 15After 1865 the bustle became fashionable for women; at this time, too, women first wore a tailored jacket with collar and lapels—the forerunner of the suit. The growing emphasis on sports, especially tennis and golf, was beginning to affect costume. Knee breeches, called knickerbockers or knickers, came into fashion for men, and sweaters became popular. After 1890 women most often wore the suit or the shirtwaist with balloon sleeves and wasp waist: the dress of the Gibson girl. Men’s suits had square shoulders and straight waists and were usually of serge or tweed; the tuxedo was used for formal wear. 16 Twentieth-Century CostumeAfter 1910, as women’s feet and legs began to be exposed, shoes were colored to match the outfit. The nightgown, for women, gave way for a time to pajamas. The popularity of sportswear for men increased; the open-necked shirt was worn and trousers were cuffed and creased. Women’s dress after 1914 was characterized by straight lines, e.g., the floor-length hobble skirt and the flapper’s boyish, short-skirted costume and matching accessories were popular in the 1920s. 17The following decades produced radical changes in women’s wear, from the flowing skirts of the 1930s and the box-jacketed suits of the 40s to the sack dress of the early 60s. Since then the fluctuating hemline has been a predominant concern of fashion. The abbreviated miniskirt has vied for popularity with the full-length maxi and the calf-length midi in coats, skirts, and dresses. Women’s clothing has become less restrictive and more casual than in previous eras. During the 1960s men’s clothing underwent revolutionary changes in color and fabric, becoming flamboyant for the first time in the 20th cent. The flaring of trouser cuffs in the 1970s was a major modification in shape. 18 National Dress ycostume. The Columbia Encyclopedia, Sixth Edition. 2001-07j t costume fcostume. The Columbia Encyclopedia, Sixth Edition. 2001-07b a m m nicehotcostume m costume sexy